This neighborhood located west of Broadway over to the Hudson River, from West 14th to West 30th Street has seen many transformations in its time.  Beginning in the late 1800s, this west side neighborhood’s primary purpose was industrial in nature-Nabisco opened its first factory here and just a few decades later, the first elevated railroad in the US began running through this district.  What was once a seemingly forgotten industrial neighborhood has, in recent years, become one of the most sought-after places to live in New York City.  Not only is Chelsea buzzing with culture but it’s also home to some of the city’s most charming shops as well as an endless array of restaurants, coffee shops and bakeries.  From the historic Hotel Chelsea to the ever-evolving art scene, this neighborhood offers plenty to see and do.

 

GALLERY HOPPING IN CHELSEA

Good art, bad art, edgy art, disturbing art – it’s all here in Chelsea waiting to please and provoke. Teeming with over  200 galleries (many of which are housed in creatively converted warehouses), Chelsea is essentially a museum where you will find a mixed bag of all art forms from up-and-coming artists to the works of the esteemed greats.  With so many galleries to choose from, it’s best to wander up and down the blocks between 20th and 28th Streets between 10th and 11th Avenues.  The best part about viewing all this amazing art is you don’t have to pay to look.  A few of the  must-see galleries to visit when in the neighborhood are:

Pace Gallery,   510 West 25th Street   With four locations in New York-three of which are in Chelsea-the focus is on contemporary works of well known artists such as Chuck Close and Kiki Smith.  Check out their Mark Rothko exhibit called Dark Palette opening November 4th.  The exhibition reveals the development of Rothko’s expressive use of dark colors in his sectional paintings.

Luhring Augustine,   531 West 24th Street   A great gallery to see large scale sculptures, video installations, photography and performance art.

Lisson Gallery,  504 West 24th Street   Shows many important Minimal and Conceptual artists such as Sol LeWitt, Richard Long; recently held an exhibition of 101 year old minimalist painter Carmen Herrera.

Gagosian Gallery,  522 West 21st Street   Modern and contemporary works by American and European artists including Julian Schnabel and Richard Serra.

303 Gallery,   555 West 21st Street   This long running gallery (since 1984) has cultivated the careers of major stars like Rodney Graham, Doug Atkin and Mary Heilman.

David Zwirner Gallery,  525 West 19th Street  David Zwirner has long been a leader in the New York gallery scene, representing more than 40 artists and estates in contemporary art, Jeff Koons and Chris Ofili have shown here.  Two of Zwirner’s three Chelsea locations have in-gallery bookshops.

Jack Shainman Gallery,   513 West 20th Street   The focus of the gallery has been to exhibit, represent and champion artists from around the world, in particular artists from Africa, East Asia and North America.

…AND FOR GOOD MEASURE, WHY NOT FINISH YOUR GALLERY DAY IN CHELSEA WITH A COUPLE OF OFF-THE-BEATEN-PATH MUSEUMS THAT I LOVE.

The Rubin Museum, renowned for its collection of Himalayan art, the museum offers a diverse array of thought-provoking exhibits and programs, including films, talks and concerts.  The Museum at FIT has amazing exhibits on the history and future of fashion.  Check out their website for free talks and tours.

 

CHELSEA, NYC – A SHOPPERS DREAM

Maison 140, 140 9th Avenue.  Harkening back to its historic roots, enter this charming shop through a wrought iron fence into the ground level of a historic Chelsea townhouse.  Maison 140 is that kind of place in which you get completely lost. Every inch of space is overflowing with charming gifts including brightly colored throws, candles, pillows, dishes, soaps and oh-so-much more!

Pippin Vintage Jewelry, 112 West 17th Street.  The other day I happened upon a precious “jewel” of a shop, I was immediately transported to the seemingly cavernous, wondrous closet that belonged to my beautiful and elegant grandmother.  Besides the plentitude of exquisitely curated jewelry (no reproductions here-only original vintage authentically and lovingly collected from estate sales and auctions), they also sell belts, buckles and vintage watches.  The only thing missing here is the distinct essence of lavender and Chanel No. 5 that was my Nana.

Printed Matter Inc., 231 11th Avenue.  Combining the concept of retail store, living archive, artist resource and performance space.  Printed Matter is the world’s leading non-profit organization dedicated to the understanding and appreciation of all art-related books.  This gem of a shop is a dream world of rare publications that you will never want to wake up from!

Chelsea Market, 9th Avenue between 15th and 16th Street.  This sprawling space (an entire City block) houses a food hall, shopping mall, office building and television production facility inside what was once the National Biscuit Company complex (this is where the Oreo cookie was created and first produced).  As you wander through the building, you get a sense of the former factory’s feel from its original floors and exposed brick walls.  Two of my favorite shops in the Market are BLACKBARN, which has both a beautiful array of home goods sourced from around the world and a cafe, all in one space and Pearl River Market, a one stop shop for all things Chinese: slippers, kimonos, chop sticks etc.  For foodies and tourists, it is possible to enter the market at one end in the morning and not exit the other until lunchtime, without ever growing bored and certainly without going hungry.

Artists and Fleas,  Located directly under the High Line and situated on the southeast corner of Chelsea Market lies a veritable potpourri of ever-changing imaginative and unique (as in distinct and original!) vendors offering the coolest in fashion, vintage, art, design and more.  This is the kind of stuff you would be hard-pressed to find anywhere else.  With an ongoing rotation of new talent every couple of weeks, Artist and Fleas is a paradise for buyers, trendsetters, and creative entrepreneurs alike.

EATS IN CHELSEA

Whether you’ve spent your morning winding your way through some of Chelsea’s art galleries, walking from one end of the High Line to other, or having taken in the beautiful architecture of the historic district, you’re sure to find yourself hungry at some point.  Here are some good local favorites.

Tipsey Parson, 156 9th Ave. (between 19th and 20th)  This cozy spot on Ninth Ave. offers a unique take on Southern comfort food.  Low country favorites like shrimp & grits, mac & cheese and flakey butternut biscuits.  Great spot for weekend brunch.

Del Posto, 85 10th Ave.  Del Posto is the handiwork of the Eataly .  Beautiful decor and exquisite Italian cuisine, the restaurant serves much more than just pasta; try their five or eight course dinner with the option of wine pairing.

Cookshop, 156 10th Ave.(at 20th) This restaurant creates a warm and welcoming home-like atmosphere, with large glass windows and big banquettes and serves a menu of American and Meditteranean food.

Socarrat, 259 West 19th Street.  Named for the flavor-packed crust that forms on the bottom of the paella pan, this place embraces Spanish culinary traditions.  The paella is a must!  Go for the Socarrat version, a mix of chicken, beef, shrimp, mussels, clams and green beans.

ART ON THE HIGH LINE

This elevated railway that sat abandoned on the West Side for decades, has become one of the city’s most popular tourist attractions.  A public park that sits 30 feet above street level stretches from Gansevoort Street all the way up to 34th Street.  While you can spend your entire time on the High Line taking in the beauty of the plantings and spectacular city views, take time to look around at all the public art.  High Line Art, Founded in 2009 by friends of the High Line, invites artists to engage with the uniqueness of the architecture, history and the design of the High Line with site-specific commissions, exhibitions, performances and video programs.

SEE & DO IN CHELSEA

Stroll the Chelsea Historic District, West 20th Street to West 22nd Street, between 8th and 9th Avenues.  These town house blocks in varying styles of Italianate, Greek Revival and other popular styles of the 19th century will make you reminisce about what New York must have been like back in the day.  A favorite hangout of Andy Warhol’s, The Chelsea Hotel, (closed for renovations) is one of the important cultural sights in New York.  It has been the home to writers, musicians, artists and actors.  Bob Dylan lived there when his first child was born as well as Jimi Hendrix, Janis Joplin, Patti Smith, Edie Sedgwick, Jane Fonda, Ethan Hawke and the list goes on and on.  The hotel was designated as a New York City landmark in 1966.    See a modern dance performance at the Joyce Theater, arguably the city’s preeminent venue for dance.  The art-modern building from 1941 was originally a movie theater showing cult films and revivals-and later adult films.  Now it is the place to see world-renowned dance companies performing modern dance, flamenco, ballet and tango at affordable prices.  Watch a performance at the Upright Citizens Brigade Theater:  Robin William’s, Conan O’Brien, and Tina Fey have all graced the sage of this 150-seat comedy venue, where improv, sketch and stand-up comedy takes place seven nights a week.  Tickets are cheap and there is no drink minimum.

CHECK INTO THE HIGH LINE HOTEL

This landmark building was reimagined by legendary design firm Roman & Williams. Oriental rugs,  1920’s rotary phones, old typewriters and beautiful Victorian antiques combine to create a sophisticated throwback vibe.  Don’t forget your furry friends, all dogs are welcome, every shape and size at The High Line Hotel.

 

Technically the oldest street in New York City’s West Village, CHRISTOPHER STREET – so named in 1799 – is a continuation of 9th Street west of 6th Avenue.  With a plethora of unique shops and restaurants, it ia the embodiment of old world charm meeting 21st Century innovation, bursting with bold creativity and jovial spirit.  Most importantly, Christopher Street became the historical hub of gay life in New York City and continues to be a cultural center for the LGBTQ community.

LGBTQ HISTORY MADE HERE

In the early hours of June 28th, 1969, police officers raided the Stonewall Inn. Unlike typical raids of gay establishments at the time, this one did not come with advanced warning and those being rounded up by the police did not wait quietly or peacefully.  Instead, a riot broke out among the bar patrons aligned with neighborhood bystanders against the attacking police officers.  It marked the first time a unified gay community took action in letting the authorities know that they were no longer willing to participate in their own persecution.  That night launched Stonewall Inn’s reputation as the birthplace of the gay rights movement.  In 2016 the building was designated a national monument.  Across the street in Christopher Park is George Segal’s sculpture “Gay Liberation”.  Installed in 1992 after a 12 year battle with Greenwich Village residents, the work consists of four life-size bronze figures modeled after two gay couples who were friends of the artist.

SHOPS ON CHRISTOPHER

John Derian Company:  Step inside this charming 500 foot space that once housed a former pet shop and you will feel as though you’ve left Manhattan and been transported to a cozy shop on Paris’s Left Bank.  This home accessories shop is filled with decoupage glassware, vintage silverware, vibrant tablecloths and accent pieces from around the world.  You can never go wrong buying a gift here for your lucky friends and yourself! Greenwich Letterpress:  I’m a sucker when it comes to quirky, innovative paper, greeting cards and stationary.  In this age of all things online, there is no better gift nor nothing cooler than receiving a card, a note or an invitation (let alone one that’s uniquely tailored to the sender or receiver’s particular taste) in the mail.  What a concept!  This place has it all and more. Three Lives & Company Books, technically on 10th Street, this West Village book shop has been a neighborhood staple since 1968.  Books cover every surface of this tiny store and the staff is super helpful and really encourage communication.  This is the store you go into to buy one book and come out with an armload. McNulty’s Tea & Coffee Company,  a visit to MCNULTY’S is like a journey to another age.  Immediately upon entering the shop, the senses are delighted by the aroma of coffees and teas from around the world.  Sacks of coffee and chests of tea with obscure markings from far away lands are visible everywhere.

EATS

There are so many wonderful restaurants in the West Village and a couple of my favorites are on Christopher Street.  Boucherie –  on a cute corner of Christopher Street tucked behind a beautiful wooden door is the smaller but more quaint of the Boucherie restaurants.   I especially love this spot for weekend brunch.  Grab a seat by the window for great people watching.  Jeffrey’s Grocery – a focus on seafood and American fare at this spot,  Jeffrey’s has a full raw bar menu and a selection of oysters that change daily.  Joseph Leonard – a tiny, sweet restaurant with a warm friendly atmosphere serving American cuisine with French and Southern touches.  Try the Steak au Poive –  it’s delicious!

ICONIC SPOT

An iconic symbol of Greenwich Village, Village Cigars has resided at its present location since 1922.  Housed under the unmistakable red and white sign on the southwest corner of 7th Avenue South and Christopher Street, this little triangular tobacco/convenience store does a brisk business in everything from lighters, flasks, lottery tickets, candy bars and cheap cigars.

PRETTIEST SIDE STREET

Gay Street is a beautiful one block street that was originally a stable alley, extending from Christopher Street to Waverly Place.  Contrary to popular myth, the name does not refer to the LGBTQ character of the village but rather is thought to have come from a family named Gay who lived there in colonial times.  One of the most photographed streets in New York it is also where the opening shots of Cyndi Lauper’s video “Girls Just Want to Have Fun” was filmed.

Have you ever noticed as you navigate your way through New York’s subways that the beautiful artwork in the city isn’t always above ground?  Take a moment before you make another mad dash for the subway and experience a first-rate art museum at most any stops, comprised of works created in mosaic, terra cotta, bronze, glass, mixed media and sculpture.  This artwork is all created by the MTA ARTS & DESIGN program established in 1985 when the subway system was making a concerted effort to reverse years of decline.  ARTS & DESIGN commissions public art that is seen by the hundreds of thousands of city- dwellers, commuters, national and international visitors who travel by the New York City Transit system every day.  As the MTA rehabilitates subway stations it uses a portion of its funds to commission permanent works of art.  ARTS & DESIGN projects create links to neighborhoods with art that echoes the architectural history and design of the individual stations locations.

 

There are over 280 STATIONS WITH ARTWORK.  Some of my favorites are:

Stationary Figures,  by William Wegman at the 23rd Street (F line) station

Artist William Wegman’s famous Weimaraners are now immortalized in eleven glass mosaic panels.  Flo and Topper – who are the 75 year old artist’s ninth and tenth Weimaraners – grace the walls of the redesigned 23rd street (F line) station in multiple poses and outfits.  Photographed with the artist’s deadpan sense of humor, the dogs take on human attributes, from wearing street clothes like a shiny raincoat or flannel shirt, to being grouped like passengers as they peer down the platform as if waiting for the train.  Wegman has worked and lived in this neighborhood for years, speaking about the project Wegman said “I wanted to create portraits of individual characters, people who you might see next to you on the platform.”

Roaming Underfoot, by artist Nancy Blum at the 28th Street (6 line) station

Glass mosaic murals by artist Nancy Blum grace the platform walls of the historic 28th Street station.  The station artwork depicts seven flowering plants inspired by nearby Madison Square Park’s Perennial Collection.  The flowers include Red Buds, Magnolias, Daffodils, Hydrangea and Witch Hazel.  The blooming plants were chosen as a representation of plant species that withstand the changing climate conditions of the city.

Perfect Strangers, by artist Vik Muniz at the 72nd Street  2nd Ave. station

Perfect Strangers, is a series of three dozen life-size portraits that seem to be waiting for a train along the concourse and entrances to the station.  The artwork is based on staged photographs of people the artist knows including restauranteur Daniel Boulud, holding a bag with a fish tail sticking out and Mr. Muniz himself making an appearance in a scene of him tripping and spilling papers from his briefcase.

CHUCK CLOSE, 86th Street and 2nd Ave. station

Chuck Close created 12 large-scale (almost 9ft high) intricate mosaic portraits of New York artists who have formed Mr. Close’s inner circle such as Phillip Glass, Cindy Sherman and lou Reed.  Mr. Close has placed two- self portraits that are definitely worth missing a train or two to inspect more closely.

Carrying On, by artist Janet Zweig and Edward Del Rosario at the Prince Street station (R train)

Carrying On is composed of almost two hundred silhouettes of people hauling “stuff” with them as they walk the streets of New York.  Begun after the 9/11 tragedy, it represents New Yorkers literally ‘carrying on’ with their lives.  The artists worked from photos of individuals moving about, in and out of the subway, always carrying something, from the sublime to the ridiculous (think surf board).  The result is a linear narrative work of miniature figures, each of whom has a story to tell.  The material used are water jet-cut steel and marble, giving the artwork a clean modern look.

Broadway Diary, by artist Timothy Snell at the 8th Street-NYU station (R train)

Artist Tim Snell says, “the mosaic is composed of 40 portholes that depict scenes and historic sites of the neighborhood (Grace Church, Washington Arch, Cooper Union, Astor Place) The artwork is spread out in an architectural format throughout the station integrating the artwork with the space.

Memories of Twenty-Third Street, by artist Keith Goddard at the 23rd Street station (R train)

From the 1800’s through the 1920’s, 23rd Street was a major vaudeville, entertainment and cultural district.  “Ladies Mile”, the fashion and department store haven of the time, was located nearby.  In his mosaic Memories of Twenty-Third Street, Keith Goddard represents this area through various hats pedestrians sported back in the day.  Both everyday citizens and prominent celebrities of the time (Oscar Wilde, Eleanor Roosevelt, Thomas Edison, Sarah Bernhardt, Houdini) are highlighted.

Alice:The Way Out, by artist Liliana Porter at the 50th Street station (1 train)

In the series of mosaic panels, titled Alice: The Way Out, Liliana Porter’s silhouetted figures portray characters from Lewis and Carroll’s iconic novel “Alice in Wonderland”.  The artwork echo’s the stage craft found in theaters nearby.  The artist evokes the idea of the theatrical and connects it all with the experience of being underground, just as Alice was during her adventures.

The Revelers, by artist Jane Dickson at the Times Square-42nd Street station

Long known as the crossroads of the world, Times Square is famous for many things, most notably it’s crowds, especially during the spirited celebration each New Year’s Eve.  Hundreds of thousands of New Yorkers and visitors from around the world gather to watch the ball drop, ushering in the first day of the new year.  The Revelers, 70 expressive, life-size figures, each depicted in some form of motion (walking, dancing, linking arms) are seen enjoying themselves and celebrating New Year’s Eve in Times Square.

A Fading 9/11  Memorial,  14th Street Union Square Station

Did you know that inside the Union Square subway station, past a small transit police precinct, is an understated memorial wall dedicated to the  thousands of vctims that perished in the September 11th attacks?  Although seemingly plain in sight, it is one of the most unassuming and therefore, poignant of the 9/11 memorials in the city.  Erected in 2002, time has taken its toll on the paper labels that have been lovingly affixed to the subway wall tiles, some have faded or fallen off altogether.  Each label is inscribed with the name and hometown of the deceased.  There is no official plaque or description…just typed names on scraps of paper, many of which have heart stickers and touching handwritten notes scrawled on them.

 

Bear in mind that listed above are only ten featured subway stations.  There are at least 275 more!  If you are interested in seeing the art up close and personal, consider taking the NYC SUBWAY ART TOUR.  Quirky, Bronx-born Darryl Reilly will take you on a three hour tour where you will discover the riches of the art underground.

 

 

 

Nestled next to Williamsburg, Greenpoint Brooklyn is a charming neighborhood full of quaint coffee shops, some of the best vintage shops in the city, historic buildings and gorgeous waterfront views.  Home to a large Polish community this place is where you will find your perfect pierogi and some of the best Polish restaurants around.  An easy neighborhood to explore,  Greenpoint is centered on four main Streets, Manhattan Ave., Nassau Ave., Greenpoint Ave. and Franklin Street.  Put on your most comfortable shoes and spend a day exploring Greenpoint.  How to get there:  Greenpoint is accessible via the G train, the only subway that doesn’t enter Manhattan, or the NYC ferry.  I usually take the L train to the Bedford Ave. stop in Williamsburg and walk over to Greenpoint.  Not the easiest neighborhood to get to but worth it.

SHOP GREENPOINT

Green point has it all.  Fashion boutiques, vintage, plant stores, apothecary shops  and the most beautiful tea atelier behind a hidden door.

PLANTS MAKE PEOPLE HAPPY

There are so many cute plant shops scattered throughout Greenpoint,  GREENERY UNLIMITED, 91 West Street is an oasis for plant lovers.  Clean and perfectly styled with plenty of places to sit and admire being surrounded by plants. TULA, 59 Meserole Ave. designed to feel like a botanical garden with two distinct spaces in which you can feel the difference between tropical and dessert environments, a great go-to for finding unique, unexpected houseplants.  TEND,  a beautifully designed store stocked with apartment-ready houseplants, hand made planters and beautiful garden inspired gifts.  Part plant shop, part vintage clothing store your sure to find something unique at FENG SWAY,86 Dobbin St.

ANIMA MUNDI APOTHECARY

Step into this soothing apothecary/cafe and instantly a sense of peace comes over you.  Filled with a large selection of natural healing products, elixirs, tonics, herbs and a knowledgeable staff your sure to be feeling Zen in no time.  ANIMA MUNDI, 31 Noble Street.

ACADEMY RECORDS

For those old enough to remember or young enough to appreciate the magic that comes from music played on vinyl check out ACADEMY RECORD ANNEX, 85 Oak Street.  They have huge selection of records, CD’s, and cassette tapes all well organized by a friendly helpful staff.

BELLOCQ TEA ATELIER

Beyond a hidden storefront a world of luxury tea awaits.  Unfinished wood floors, and bold eggplant colored walls are offset by bright yellow tea canisters brimming with specialty teas. BELLOCQ TEA ATELIER , 104 West Street is an award winning purveyor of hand-crafted organic tea blends.  Here the selections are always changing and come with beguiling names such as “The White Wolf” and “Fireside Chai”

VINTAGE TREASURES

My closet is filled with vintage clothing.  I love that things can be beautifully preserved, passed on, environmentally friendly, relatively inexpensive and unique.  Greenpoint has an array of great vintage stores thanks to an influx of hipster, retro-loving residents.  AWOKE VINTAGE,  688 Manhattan Ave. is where you will find piles of denim, floral skirts, T-shirts, great layering staples and comfortable everyday pieces.  Tucked away on an empty industrial street, FENG SWAY, 86 Dobbin St. is not to be missed. A bohemian dreamland that sells everything from vintage kimonos, lace slip dresses, accessories, crystals and a large selection of plants and planters.  FOX AND FAWN is a vintage and re-sale shop that sells a beautifully curated vintage collection that is fairly priced. SEVEN WONDERS COLLECTIVE, 37 Norman Ave. and ECDYSIS, Manhattan Ave are also treasure troves of vintage worth checking out.

COFFEE AND CONFECTIONS

There are so many cute spots to grab a coffee or bite to eat.  Don’t leave Greenpoint without trying a donut from PETER PAN DONUTS,727 Manhattan Ave. a neighborhood staple for over 60 years, and still a lineup every weekend out the door for their cake donuts and delicious drip coffee.  Stepping into BAKERI, 105 Freeman Ave. makes you feel like your at a cafe in the English countryside not Greenpoint, Brooklyn.  A floral print-covered cafe and exposed Kitchen-bakery serving pastries and light breakfast/lunch fare.  A tranquil setting for anyone needing a break from the hustle of the city.  MAMAN, 80 Kent is a delightful rustic cafe offering a selection of delicious baked goods, farm fresh salads, sandwiches and not to be missed, their famous nutty chocolate chip cookies.  A local hangout, HOMECOMING, 107 Franklin St. serves locally made pastries, coffee (try their Golden Tumeric Latte) flowers, plants, home goods and more.  MILK & ROSES, LE GAMIN and SAUVAGE are wonderful places to stop for an afternoon coffee or wonderful brunch spots